THANK YOU!!! and a Happy New Year!

HAPPY NEW YEAR and very best wishes for a wonderful 2014 ... to everyone who has stuck with me in my first year of blogging! 

A very big THANK YOU to all friends near and far, new and old - and some very long standing! - for your comments, your encouragement and your thoughts.  I am sincerely grateful and appreciate you more than you can imagine.

This year, while it has been one of turmoil and change for so many people here and around the world, represented almost unimaginable achievements for me personally.  Living on the boat away from our dog and home, the long cruise north to Cairns and the unbelievable Louisiades Rally all represent the trappings of another, more adventurous - maybe younger - woman.  But they are milestones I achieved.  And you shared them with me/us.  Again Thank You.

My wish for you, your family, friends and loved ones is for peace, love, kindness and happiness in the year ahead....as I do for our little family.  Remember, every chance you get, please be kind throughout the coming year - to yourself, others, animals and the earth. 

Happy New Year from me and Molly!!  (The captain is at sea somewhere having a great time too!!)

Careful Negotiation. Good Outcome.

The sailors quite a few years ago.

I've been married for 34 years ... over half my life ... to the same person.

Sometimes - most of the time if I'm honest - this life's marriage-a-thon is good.  The way it should be and I'm very happy and exceedingly grateful.

Other times negotiating the mine field of differing wants/needs can be more than frustrating.  Trying to achieve an acceptable outcome for both of us can expand into the realms of maddening, exasperating and downright infuriating.

Usually its the BOAT that brings out the worst in us both.  I'm a self confessed chicken sailor, happy to cruise through part of the day in light balmy winds.  He's happiest when the wind is blowing hard and most of the sail is hoisted causing the boat to lean heavily to one side as it gallops through the ever increasing waves on into the dusk.  You can just imagine the "negotiations" while at sea!

This week has seen a (heated) rise in our land base "negotiations".  His ankle is much better and we're both anxious to get 'Southern Belle' back down to Sydney where she belongs.  I've made it clear I don't want to do the sail back .. for many reasons.  He can't hear me.  Even when I'm driven to raising my voice I can't get through.  My husband just thinks I'll eventually give in - like I always do.

Anyway we were down to threats.  He was going to do it alone.  All 900+ miles.  And I was faced with the dilemma of holding my ground but worried if something awful happened I would never forgive myself for being "selfish".  Why does it always have to be an all or nothing outcome?

Well I can happily say we've reached a final compromise.  And one that doesn't mean I have to give in.  Hooray!  George will sail from Rosslyn Bay, where the boat is now, to Manly marina near Brisbane with one of our rally friends.  I'll fly up and join him for a week or so while we visit friends there and then he'll sail the boat down to Sydney with other friends.  Perfect.  Good outcome.

Can someone tell me how these negotiations could be easier.  Is it possible?  Or, is it just human nature - marriage or not - to have to wrangle with others before a compromise can be reached?  I guess that's the case .. we still wage war and our politicians are getting more contrary.  It's a damn shame it takes so long to just HEAR each other. 

And...I'm as guilty as anyone else. 

BUT deliriously happy I don't have to worry about his safety or sail the boat back!

Excellent Days

We finally meet the wonderful Miss Lillian Adams!  I am in LOVE.

Today we finally met Lillian Adams.  She's 6 months old and, without a doubt, she stole my heart from the second we met.  I felt - feel - absolutely beguiled, bewitched, besotted and swept off my feet by this little happy person.

Pip, Kate and Lilli on the back porch.

Lilli is Pip (Phillip) and Kate's little girl.  I guess Pip is the closest George and I get to a "son" of our own.  We've known him since he was in his early teens ..  the son of our good friend Brian.  George, who is a quiet and reserved person - usually happy for people to come to him - has always called or found someway to get in touch with Pip as often as possible.  There is a big connection there they both embrace.

Pip is unique and multilayered.  A true individual.  Happy... a bit manic ... a hugger and lover.  Always the first to laugh and hug and make a joke.  Also, in his younger years, hopelessly attractive/attracted to women - and loving every minute.   He has a fabulous relaxed attitude to life.  Animals absolutely LOVE him .. and let's face it - They know!  Kate is the same.  They are gold people .. very special.

Which brings me to Lilli.  What a cool, in touch little person - already.  She loves dogs and the sound of Molly's incessant excited barking didn't scare her in the least. On the contrary, the more Molly got excited the more she laughed.  Lilli got me ... had me from the first smile.  It was weird, I found myself on the verge of both laughing and crying the whole time they were here - with delight and love.  Hopefully we will see a lot more of this little bundle of joy before she's all grown up.

George, Robert and Maggie last night after dinner.  Great to have them here.

Last night we had a visit from Robert Burns and his very lovely wife, Maggie.  We met Robert on the Louisiades Rally and became great friends.  He lives part of the year in Townsville and part in Borneo where Maggie comes from.  We had a terrific time at dinner, great conversation & company and so good to see them here in Sydney.  As we parted last night we promised to visit them in Malaysia in the near future (by plane, I'm not sailing there!).  So good to see the friendships we made during our epic adventure are staying firm!

A very busy Sydney fish market!

This morning we joined in with the Christmas Eve tradition of making our way through the crowds to the Sydney Fish Market.  I dragged George out of bed at 5am this morning thinking we could beat the crowds.  Unfortunately we didn't.  Leaving home at 5:15 we were nearly there by 5:30 but stuck in the jammed traffic until well after 6.  Luckily I had pre-booked our Christmas lunch order so I didn't have to stand in the lines waiting to just get into the outlet.  It's been so hot here we decided to only have seafood for lunch instead of the baked turkey and trimmings.  I'm sure the wait will be well worth it tomorrow with luscious chilled prawns (shrimp) and French Champagne!!!

On the way home we stopped at the dog park to give Molly a run and I found a new piece of (children's) entertainment at the back of the park.  Boy was it fun!!  I must have rolled on it a dozen times before George (spoil sport) made me get off.  So much fun!

Happy Christmas Eve everyone!!  Peace and Love and Goodwill to all!

 

Good Times with Friends

Ian and George in awe of the metre long pizza!

Now that we're back, and George's foot injury is getting better, our weeks tend to be pretty sedate.  Being back home can, sometimes, feel like an anticlimax - more for George than me, I think - but it doesn't mean we're like that all the time.  The past two weekends have been jammed packed fun with 'good friends time' ... the BEST time!

On the 6th of December we went to the yacht club "First Friday" cruisers event.  It was the first time we had  been able to reconnect to many of the friends we met on the rendezvous cruise up to Cairns from Sydney.  We had a terrific night catching up with so many people we met and became friends with along the way North.  Also I had the first opportunity to talk to the RPAYC cruising people who followed this blog and emailed me through our sailing adventure and to thank them for their fantastic support.  It was a big night all round .. our first chance to see everyone since returning to Sydney. 

The club had organised very special speakers for the evening meaning the venue was packed.  The guest speakers were internationally renowned sailors Lin and Larry Pardley who have travelled over 200,000 nautical miles in very small boats.  Lin gave an amazing account of their early time together, the decision to build both of their world cruising boats themselves as well as the good, bad and challenging times they've experienced over all the oceans on this planet.

Lin and Larry. 
If you don't know much about them have a read of the articles via Google.
What an amazing life they built for themselves.

Our friend John let us stay on board his boat in the RPAYC marina that night (thank you John!).  The club is very handy to our boat mooring (when it's there), but miles away from our home, so having a place to bed down there meant we could enjoy the wine as well as the company.  We finished off around midnight with drinks aboard with friends Ian, Sharon, Peter and Sue promising to do it again soon.

Saturday night I cooked dinner for friends Keith and Jenny here at the house and another good - and late - night was enjoyed.  Keith had been on a fishing trip up to the reef in the last couple of months and they brought the main course - beautiful coral trout.  Lots of conversation and mighty fine wine was drunk but we all maintained enough sobriety (and surprising good sense) to have a great time without feeling bad the next day.  Perfect.

The next weekend was even more packed.  The chance to see our friends from the club again came up quickly when we managed to get a reservation for Friday the 13th at the wildly popular local pizza restaurant - Via Napoli.  This place is so popular its been almost impossible to get bookings since it opened.  Their popularity comes from the fantastic "streets of Italy" atmosphere and their metre long pizzas.

Me and Sue at the beginning of the massive pizza.  What a fun night!

The food wasn't exactly gourmet but we had a good time!

Saturday our friend Leona was up from Canberra.  She came over for lunch with her cousin for a good catch up.  We hadn't seen each other much since the beginning of the year so there was plenty to talk about, again over wine and food.  And Saturday night our next door neighbour had a drinks party for the neighbourhood and their friends.  Sunday we had a lovely time with Tim who, welcomed us in his house while we were in Cairns, came for dinner and stayed the night.

Two great weekends with friends.  I love socialising!!  Guess I'm happy we're pretty boring during the week or I'd be looking at alcoholism soon!

This weekend is quiet.  I don't mind.  Its a good chance to catch up on our walks around the harbour with Molly.  This morning we went to Tunks park so she could have a big run and swim in the harbour.  Tunks park is big and just below the lovely, and historic, stone bridge which gives this suburb its name - Northbridge.

Throwing the ball.

Christmas is coming on Wednesday.  How did this year go so fast!  We're keeping it very low key .. nothing like last year's extravaganza.  In fact I haven't put up one bit of decoration .. mainly because George can't get up the ladder to get the box out of the attic due to his tendon injury.  We're planning a seafood lunch with John which will be fun but I think Santa may pass us by ... after the 6-7 month adventure we've just had - can't blame him.

Use it .. or don't Lose It!

This is a photo of me and Molly off for our 45 minute walk up to Lane Cove and back with a little back pack on my back.  Unfortunately it was garbage and recycling morning so the garbage cans on the street tend to ruin the picture.

While on the boat I lost weight.  Not sure how much exactly but the fact that my size 10 (Australian) shorts were falling off me were a good indicator that things had changed for the better.  The main 2 factors I can attribute the change to would be not being able - or willing - to eat when underway at sea and all the exercise.  Yes, at sea or underway I just do not want to eat.  A lot of the time I don't exactly feel so seasick that I want to puke ... I just don't feel good.  So eating is, in my mind, not a good idea.  Additionally, on a boat, you are always moving regardless of being asleep or awake.  The body is constantly maintaining equilibrium.   Catherine told us that sailing was one consistent core exercise.  I concur.

Since we've been home I've noticed the benefits receding rapidly.  It could be the 3-4 glasses of white wine every night or the potato chips or the higher than usual amount of fried food.  (Note: On the boat we don't fry anything due to the dangers of fire and hot oil accidentally flying across the cabin.)

So I'm making myself walk for 45 minutes to an hour every morning with Molly.  It is good for both of us.

There's the "big hill" we walk up each day.  Bloody steep.  By the time we get to the top I'm puffing like .. well, not sure ... but quite out of breath.  It's getting better.

We pass the golf course at one stage and, if the golfers aren't around, Molly gets a good run up and down the 5th tee.

I arrive at the Lane Cove Village plaza half way through the walk.  The village is getting busier and busier but it looks lovely dressed in the season's colours.  Notice the "older" lady and man crossing the street.  Unfortunately - or fortunately, not sure yet really - I see so many people of my 'age' out walking and keeping fit at the same time.  *Sigh*  I don't see myself yet as retired or in the "grey" brigade which keeps me from recognising myself in this pack.

Hey, I want a job!  Now!  Its not time for me to step aside yet (I hope).  However, with all my (mock) denial I'm loving this life!!!

This morning George decided to try his foot out and walk the easy way (without the hills) with me to Lane Cove.  On the way back I tried to take his photo but after all this time he's still Internet camera shy.  Ahh .. cute.

"This could be the last time.." The Rolling Stones

"Well this could be the last time
This could be the last time
Maybe the last time
I don't know. oh no. oh no"

 

The Rolling Stones mean a lot to me in umpteen ways.  They provided the music, beautiful & raunchy rock/blues, that formed the soundtrack to much of my life experiences - the good, the bad and the just plain naughty.  They've always been "my boys" - and Mick my poster boy/man - since the late 1960s. 

Goodness.  Really?  Yes, early 1960.  It's weird to write or think about that.   So many of the people I know right now weren't even born then - hell, some of their parents probably weren't even born then!

 

I've just successfully bought a ticket - 1 ticket - to see my boys on March 25 next year.  Yes, I'm going solo - alone - by myself.  The ticket prices are extortionate, over $500 per ticket for the good seats, and George refused to go with me at those prices.  I don't really mind because once the concert starts I'll be dancing like crazy anyway.

As the song says, "this could be the last time" to see them in concert.  I honestly don't remember how many times I've seen them over the years.  The first time Jae, me and a car load of hippies drove all the way to Tuscaloosa, Alabama.  The date was June 28, 1972.  Since then I was lucky enough to see them every time they came to Atlanta - the most memorable concert was at the Fox Theatre where I had 3rd row seats!  The last time they were in Sydney - April 2006 - was a terrific show and I truly thought that time would be the last.

Now there's one more time.  The ticket was stupidly expensive but I would have probably paid more.  That's how much being with them, dancing with them - live - one more time means to me.



Relief for the Skipper, Good movie and Enjoying life

Finally, no boot or cast.

Today the Skipper and I went to yet another specialist about his Achilles tendon. 

It seems like he's either been in a cast or restrictive boot for weeks and weeks .. but, it's only been just over 6 weeks actually!  Plenty has happened since that soccer game on the island of Nimoa.   Not one that's used to being sick or injured, in any way, he was getting incredibly grumpy and sorry for himself - more so every day.  Which was driving me to the point of not being able to be any kind of "nice".   He hasn't been able to drive since arriving back on shore meaning I'm the driver, grocery shopper, dog walker and chauffeur all day every day.  So, as I drove him to his 8am appointment this morning, we were both in a state of high expectation and apprehension.  This doctor just had to say he had mended and could start to move his right foot again!

Luckily that's what happened.  The doc said he could take the boot off now for extended periods (which, in reality, he was pretty much already doing); he could start to drive if he practised making sure he could step on the breaks hard; and he could sail remembering that ladders and climbing on masts etc. should be done with much care.  George will see a physio tomorrow and, hopefully, he will be well on the way to a full recovery before the end of the year.  Hooray!

Good Movie
Last Friday it was cool and rainy and I couldn't face staying in the house with Mr Grump so I suggested we go see a movie.  I've been wanting to see 'The Butler' since reading about it months ago and it was playing at the only cinema George will go to at just the perfect early afternoon time.  So I won the "discussion" and off we went.

I had an idea of what the film was about but it was so much more.  As expected it tracked the life of a man who was butler to American Presidents starting with Eisenhower and ending with Reagan.  What I didn't expect was an account of the shocking treatment of black people in America and the struggle to equal rights through the second half of the 20th century.  Coming from Atlanta Georgia and growing up through that time I was witness to the struggles and hatred and the slow change of behaviour - and even slower changes of thought - first hand.   I found the film surprisingly powerful and moving.  I recommend anyone to see it especially people in places outside of the USA .. its a good look at how far the US has (apparently) moved I the past 60 years.   And its also worthwhile just to see John Cusack and Alan Rickman play Nixon and Reagan respectively ... they do it well!

Enjoying Life

Molly with the new ball we bought today .. and newly planted flowers in pots!

I'm still utterly enjoying being back at home.  The shops, driving my car, the birds, being able to watch the ABC TV programs I love - all are still special after life on the boat. 

Still nothing escapes the gratitude I/we feel since experiencing how those lovely people of the Louisiade Islands live their life.  Just this morning, as we were walking through the shopping centre on the way to the doctor, George turned to me and said, "can you imagine if we brought the Louisiade people here how they would feel ... it would be like landing on another planet".  It will take a long time for those smiling faces to leave our thoughts - I hope never, ever.

Molly - with the shits - after I tried to pose her with the ball.
 I love it when she makes a point by turning her back.  Funny.

HOME! (getting settled and clean, clean, clean)

Good to be home surrounded by familiar things and lovely Miss Molly.

Leaving Southern Belle on Saturday morning was sad ... for me ... outwardly.  Not sure how the Captain really felt but the whole morning but he was very quiet and a tad grumpy.  Considering we've spent the past 6 months living cheek to jowl on a 40ft boat, I know he was feeling more or less sad and worried and disappointed at leaving the boat in the Rosslyn Bay marina.  It couldn't be helped due to his foot but that didn't make walking/limping away any easier.  We checked and re-checked the mooring lines and did all we could to make sure she was as safe and secure as possible.  Walking down the marina I kept looking back, saying to myself, "stay safe".  George didn't look back.  He's Scottish ... not outwardly sentimental.  I tend to over compensate for his inscrutable emotions.

The trip home took almost all day.  Buses, taxis, 2 planes and we were finally back home in Sydney!  The traffic, the people and the sheer size of the place was certainly something different.  Over the past weeks, as I got more and more excited about going home, George's typical reply was, "why do you want to go back to sit in traffic jams!"  No question he wants to stay forever on the boat .. it's such a carefree existence.  Me, I don't mind traffic and I want more ... period.  This disparity between our living ideals could be a concern, not sure - hope not, we'll need to see how it plays out in the future.

As the taxi pulled away leaving us standing on the edge of the driveway I couldn't help but relish the scene.  The huge maple tree in the front had lost all it's leaves when I left in June and now it was lush, shading the yard and the front of the house just right, the way I remembered.  The yard was tidy and everything certainly looked in place and in order. 

One thing though, Molly wasn't barking her head off like she usually does when she hears a strange car pull up.  We both realised it at the same time and started calling her name simultaneously.   Then, there she was, walking around the edge of the back porch with the most confused look.   Molly didn't bark or cry or go crazy like I thought she would.  She just quietly walked up to the open gate looking at us then, as we both hugged and loved her, she started to cry excitedly.  I joined in, it was so good to see our dog again!

The past few days here at home have been so good.  Molly doesn't venture very far away from us.  Unlike other dogs she hasn't tried to punish our absence.  On the contrary, I think if she could wrap herself around us we wouldn't be able to peel her off.  Even at night, she either sleeps with us or on the floor next to George - sweet.

The parrots have come to welcome us.  I asked Stephanie if they fed them while we were gone and she can only remember doing it once.  I wonder if they saw us back and thought, "great, they're back, time for free seeds!"

I've completely lost my mind and descended deep into a cleaning frenzy.  It's not that the house was particularly dirty.  Steph did a great job.  It's just that while living day to day you gravitate towards taking it all for granted often not seeing what needs to be done.   Believe me, coming from looking at the same 40ft of boat for the past 6 months I can see EVERYTHING that needs attention!  I just about asphyxiated myself with bleach and mould killer in both bathrooms over two days.  Honestly.  At one point I thought I'd done terminal lung damage.  Serious spring cleaning is now due to happen .. but I'm going to take it easy and do it over a few days/weeks.   The Captain has even been bitten by the bug, he was hobbling across the back porch cleaning windows this afternoon.

I love being home and can't wait to catch up with friends next week.  I wish - we both wish - Southern Belle was here, in Sydney, at her mooring.  But, hopefully, that will happen soon.

George in Boot + Brian and Megan our good friends

George is fitted with his boot - Not Good.

I haven't blogged for a while .. sorry. I felt like I needed to wait for the prevailing mood to get better .. and it has, a bit, thank goodness.

Last week we went to the specialist in Rockhampton hoping that the skipper's tendon injury wasn't as bad as originally thought ... as we rode the 40 minutes or so there was a real feeling that things were going to take a favourable turn.  But, after 10 minutes with the specialist, this "up" feeling was quickly squashed as he told George surgery should have happened in Cairns and, unfortunately, now it was too late.  Scar tissue had already formed where there should be new growing tendon - and the fact that the Captain was walking on his cast hadn't helped matters.  We both sat in stunned silence as the doctor told George he may always have a lazy foot but - as long as he didn't want to be a runner - he could live with it just fine ... IF, he kept the foot in a special position for the next 7 weeks!  I think the seriousness of the injury finally sunk in.  Georgio was then sent to a physio to be fitted with a special boot which has risers in the heel to keep his foot at an angle allowing the tendon/scar tissue to attach.  At least he can walk on it - a bit - but because its uneven with his other foot it means going any short distance can be painful.

George was pretty depressed on the return trip from Rockhampton.  He's been on the boat since May 2 and does NOT want to leave her behind.  He was very quiet for a day or two and getting him to discuss the next steps was impossible.  But, as usual, he finally came around.

Now we're going home.  The skipper realises its just going to be too hard to try to keep the boat going south.  We'll leave the boat here in the marina until mid-December.  I'm glad - but I do wish we weren't going home under these circumstances.  We've moved in with Brian and Megan for the week with our flight to Sydney booked for Saturday.  I'll be in my home by 6pm next Saturday night!  Yippee!

Good Times with Good Friends

The upside of all this has certainly been the time we're spending with Brian and Megan.  Last night we drank the bottle of champagne I had set aside to be our "arriving back in Australia" celebratory bottle.  With all the running to the hospital and living with George's cast in Cairns we never had a chance to commemorate arriving back in Australia properly.  

We sat on M & B's front veranda taking in the view over the ranges and enjoying our Champers with nibbles!  I do feel sorry for people who don't, or can't, drink.  Because the simple pleasure of sharing good wine with friends is absolutely one of the finest - and less complicated - enjoyments I can think of!

The moon was full and we shared a howl or two.

The group "howl" was particularly funny.

This week ahead will be a busy one.  Megan, unfortunately, left for New Zealand today to take care of her mom who is having surgery next week so we won't see her again this trip.  The captain and I will clean the boat and take as much "stuff" off  as necessary.  Plus we have to be sure we secure the boat for the month with double mooring lines and plastic tubing to prevent any of the ropes rubbing through.  Brian has to be finished with the apartments he's building by the 30th of November and I'm hoping to help with some of the clean up work that Megan was doing. 

I can't wait to see Miss Molly, our dog, again .. soon.

2200+ Miles there and back .. and a sad discovery

Roslyn Bay Marina as viewed from the laundry.  The laundry is always one of the first places you go to when you arrive in a new marina - that and the showers!

Arrived in Roslyn Bay Marina yesterday at 2pm after travelling well over 2200 ocean miles!  Good Grief .. Holy Shit .. and all the other exclamations I can come up with and still stay nice on the blog.

It is hard to believe that we're here - back where I started this extraordinary adventure 5 months ago.  Time has past so quickly in one way and in another way it appears to have gone as slowly as accumulated ocean miles.  And let me tell you time goes very slowly when you're out at sea traveling in a small boat!  Sometimes the boredom and/or anxiousness about getting to your next destination can be hard to manage.  It can be quite beautiful or boring or exciting - such is the nature of this kind of sailing.  There was a time that I would have considered the possibility of traveling over 2000 miles in a small boat on the ocean as utterly inconceivable.  Yet here we are once again in Roslyn Bay Marina.

But the jaw dropping coincidence ... fluke ... odd happening .. is how we've managed to leave here and get here in the same situation, only reversed.  When I arrived back in June I was at the end of my recovery from a broken foot and still tenuous about walking around the marina and getting on and off the boat.  Now, arriving months later, George is doing the same!  

The Captain getting ready to climb on board using his free foot and his knee to get up the side ladder. 
YOU COULD NOT MAKE THIS UP COULD YOU?

It's great being here.  Our good friends Megan and Brian live here and when we're at home in Sydney we only ever get to see them on special occasions.  Last night they came down to the marina around 6 to say hello and we laughed and told stories and had a wonderful time!  We're certainly looking forward to a lot more time with them while we're here.

Megan came to the marina early this morning to take us to the local hospital to see if we could get someone to have another look at George's Achilles tendon and also re-do the cast which is in appalling shape.  The Skipper - my husband - is a stubborn and hard headed man.  He will not use his crutches or stop walking on the cast.  Now, after a few weeks and lots of sea miles out of Cairns the cast has lost all firmness and its a dirty mess.  The hospital put another cast on today and gave us a referral to a orthopaedic specialist for tomorrow morning in Rockhampton.  It will be interesting to see what he says.  When they removed the cast this morning his foot was working reasonably well and he didn't seem to have pain so maybe the injury wasn't as bad as originally thought.  Here's hoping.

The Sad Discovery

Last night, before Megan and Brian arrived, George took a walk down the marina finger with his cane.  I know, he's not supposed to be walking but what can you do?  He came back excited and told me I had to come and have a look!  Our previous boat - Southern Aurora - which we had for 8 years and George loved so much was here, in this marina.  We hadn't seen her since we sold her last in 2009.  The years we had her were good and she was loved and polished and cared for with the same intensity that we give to Southern Belle.  The sad discovery is that she hasn't been cared for since.

Her sails are torn, there is about 6 inches of growth on her bottom, she's dirty and really bashed up - like someone has driven her drunk into things - all down the side.  It was heartbreaking to see her like that.  George was particularly disappointed and angry.  So sad and so unnecessary to not take care of what was once such a lovely boat.

A New Island!

The beach and distinctive rocky outcrop on the island of Curlew.

If hard pressed to say what I absolutely LOVE about this Australian Coral Coast Cruising I'd have to say one of the big, most enjoyable and satisfactory things would be discovering new places!   Certainly on the way up to Cairns everything was new and had an almost extreme WOW factor.  Now, on the way back, we've found ourselves in much the same places we visited previously.  Not so much because of the familiarity factor (although that is welcome after over 50 nautical miles travelled in any one stint) but because the places we stopped the first time are in just the right place for tired sailors to rest after an 8-10 hour journey.

Today we had a different destination .. and one we took with just a little bit of trepidation.  This morning at 0600 (6:00 am) we raised the anchor and started out for Curlew Island about 70 or so nautical miles from Goldsmith Island.   All the guide books told us the island was lovely.  One even called it, "doubtlessly the jewel of the area".  But in direct contradiction to the books, the chart and the GPS plotter showed the anchorage as having only 1metre of depth as well as being particularly tricky to enter around a large sand bank.

Anyway, top make a long story short, we got here.  Entered the bay without the help of the GPS plotter - which, by the way, I LOVE and depend on when driving - and motored slowly into beautiful blue, but very unknown, waters.  Well, obviously, it turned out well or I wouldn't be writing this blog.  The island anchorage is lovely!!!  A big white sandy beach goes the length of the lagoon which looks very inviting.  There are only two other boats here and in the distance there are islands as far as you can see.  As soon as the boat settled down the Skipper - George - spotted a turtle and the fish have been literally jumping out of the water.  Sensational - calm, blue, beautiful.

Islands, islands, islands as far as you can see.

Tomorrow, unfortunately, we're off again .. this time headed further down south to Pearl Bay.  Again it will be a new stop for us .. we didn't go there on the way up .. so we're expecting more magic like today.

Last night we caught up with Brett and his crew member, Jen, from 'Wind of Change' - or 'Windy' - one of our rally boat friends.  They came over for drinks and dinner and we had a terrific time catching up and meeting Jen who is here from France.  I hope we see them again on this trip south.

Hopefully we're only 3 or 4 days from our destination of the marina at Roslyn Bay - in Yeppoon.  Our good friends Megan and Brian live there and, as well as looking forward to seeing them again, also taking the skipper back to the hospital for another look at his foot.

More adventure ahead.

Position Update and on the move again

Southern Belle in her berth in the Abel Point Marina at Airlie Beach.

Hi Ya'll!  A quick update on what's happening with us.  From my last post you can get the clear feeling that I was well and truly "over it!" stuck behind a hill enduring a howling southerly.  Well I was over it.  The next day with the weather forecast not much better we woke early to the skipper saying, "it will calm down, let's go".  I wasn't too happy about moving but we pulled up the anchor and left Cape Upstart headed for the Gloucester Passage. 

It's over now so no need to go on about it but the 50 (give or take a few) nautical mile trip was not enjoyable.  More of the same motoring into a 20-25 knot headwind the whole way.  Luckily we left very early - first light about 5:30am - so we arrived at the Gloucester Eco Resort by 1400 (2pm) in the afternoon.  Desperate to get off the boat we launched the dingy - for the first time since Nimoa - and went ashore for lunch!  I know, George should not be lugging the outboard, launching the dingy and walking across hot sand in his cast but he is impossible to stop or to try to make any sense so I've - to some degree - given up trying.

Lunch was OK.  It was Sunday afternoon and the Eco Resort had a lot of families there for the weekend and/or Sunday lunch ... to entertain the lunch crowd they had a guy on guitar and amplifier singing - loudly.  His voice wasn't that bad but he insisted on singing popular songs, but changing the beat and word emphasis with every one.  This made listening to him really really annoying.  After all the hassle of launching the dingy George couldn't wait to leave.  The best part of the afternoon was being on land and not eating my own cooking!

After a gloriously quiet night of little wind plus being on a mooring we got up at the more acceptable hour of 7:30 to a beautiful Queensland Whitsunday morning ... Clear skies, turquoise water and not too much wind.  Perfect.

Again I tried to capture the stunning beauty of the turquoise water and the photo just doesn't do it justice.

The mooring was slipped gently off the front of the boat and we motored in less than 10 knot winds to the marina at Airlie Beach.

The marina is virtually empty.

We were here back in late July - goodness it seems so long ago now - and the place was bustling with backpackers and charter boats going in and out.  Now its pretty empty.  The tourist boats still go out but there are only about a third of them from July.

We're off in the morning - early again - headed for Goldsmith or Brampton Islands.  Destination depends on the wind strength which is forecast to be a more acceptable easterly.  If the weather holds we may give Mackay a miss and head on down to Roslyn Bay.   This part of the journey will be long but, hopefully, the Northeasters will start to come our way later in the weekend.

Everyday we get closer to home.... I get happier.

Stuck at Cape Upstart

Shot of the shore at Cape Upstart from the boat.  Wish you could feel the sting of the wind!  It is fierce.

This week has been good ... up until yesterday and today.  Since leaving Cairns we've travelled almost 250 nautical miles in 4 days - only travelling during the day.  That may not sound like a lot to those of you who don't sail or go boating so let me explain how tough that can be.  Our boat - on a good day - averages about 7 knots per hour.  Sometimes with gusts of wind or waves and current behind we can do 8 or 9 but that's in good or extreme conditions.  Which means since Tuesday morning we've done 35 hours of sailing - an average of 8.5 hours a day - or motoring mostly - in pretty good conditions with me and the skipper only half mobile in his cast.  Unfortunately the famous northerly winds of late October/early November have not materialised yet which would make the trip a whole lot easier.

Yesterday - Friday - we left Horseshoe Bay at 0530 bound for Cape Upstart, a planned journey of 70 nautical miles which we hoped would end with the anchor dropped about 3:30pm.  The wind was forecast to be from the east-north-east at a good speed of 15-20 knots.  Unfortunately it came up much stronger and directly out of the southeast right on our nose.  This made the waves stand up and the going much harder and altogether uncomfortable.  Just as 'Southern Belle' gets her speed up she slams face first into a wave which stops her forward motion for a moment.   The forecast 20 knots ended up being 25+ knots (windy) by the early afternoon.  We did mange to sail some of the way which was a welcome relief from the constant sound of the engine.  This meant the 10 hour trip turned out to be more like 12 and a half hours before we could get the anchor down and collapse exhausted into the cool arms of our first beer! 

Then, with a weather forecast for Saturday of  25+ knots again directly from the southeast, we decided we wouldn't/couldn't do it again.  We would take the day off, give George's leg and me a rest and wait for the wind to change.  It turns out that was a perfectly good decision!  Today the wind has been ferocious .. gusting straight out of the south over 34 knots (very windy).  I'm so glad we're not trying to beat into this for another 10-12 hours.  I didn't enjoy yesterday.  In fact I sent a text to our friend Jenny in Sydney saying if I ever get home it will be a cold day in hell before I set foot on this boat again.  Extreme.  Maybe. But yesterday's marathon had me ready to leave the boat - for good, for ever.  I guess everyone feels that way now and again about anything but I am quite over this and ready to go home.  Nothing a couple of beautiful days less windy days won't cure.

Anyway, that's how we found ourselves stuck at Cape Upstart.  Our little anchor is doing a gallant job of holding us in place against the maelstrom.  When I finally get back home I'm going to write a letter to the anchor manufacturer to tell them just how good their product really is!!

Cape Upstart is an unusual place.  The Cape itself is a large outcrop of dry looking mountains loosely covered in trees jutting out into the ocean from an almost featureless area of low lying coast.  The bay it forms is wide and open and becomes shallow quickly - way before a keel boat like ours can get close to the shore.  There are no roads or towns or amenities here.  The shore line is dotted with houses that look to be mainly weekenders or holiday houses - probably for the city/town dwellers up and down the coast.  It's pretty boring to be at or look at from the boat but the mountains do a great job of breaking the impact of the wind so I'm glad to be here.

Our day off has actually been terrific so far - apart from listening to the wind scream outside and endure the rocking of the boat as she pulls against the anchor while riding the wind waves.  (Sorry, I'm complaining too much and I'll stop that right now!)  George decided to try his hand at making fruit muffins with the frozen berries in the fridge.  They came out very tasty.  The DVD player is getting a workout with 2 movies down and more to come tonight I expect.

Hopefully the wind will allow us to be on our way south to Airlie Beach tomorrow which is all up about another 70 nautical miles away.  We'll try to do it in two days if the weather is on our side.

I meant to write the final instalment of our Louisiades adventure - but I think I'm in a bit too much of a negative mindset to give that my best.  So I'll save it for another time - maybe while stationary in Airlie's marina.

Louisiades Rally - Nimoa

 

This was the sheer size of the jungle as we entered the river.

 

The first full day we were at Nimoa we went on a trip down the Fieori River.  To get there we had to ride in banana boats for a long long way .. to the large neighbouring island of Sudest.    The ride in the B-boats was gruelling!  Over 45 minutes of bone jarring slamming into the waves.  For some reason I thought the river we were going to was only around the bend - so to speak - but it turned out to be way way way down open water before we even looked like turning into an opening in the jungle.



Sometimes the impenetrable jungle opened out to stunning beauty.

 

Sudest is largely unexplored and it was easy to see why when we entered the river from the surrounding sea.  The jungle on all sides seemed to be completely wild and uninhabitable - BUT, as we motored around bends in the river there were people there on the banks to wave at us as we passed.  How do they live there?  I wondered.

The vistas changed around every bend in the river. 
It was so beautiful and wild it looked like something from the set of a film!

Our trip on the river ended with a small waterfall.  All the dim-dims climbed out of their boats and waded in the water and before we knew it we were surrounded by the people from the village upstream.  We visited with them, shared photos and had a terrific day out.

We were looking forward to the Island of Nimoa.  It was to be our last stop on the rally before heading home but it was also the base for the Nimoa clinic and Father Tony's parish.  We felt like we knew a lot about the island because Kevin and Francis Dunn - also members of the RPAYC & they have a boat just like ours - had a special relationship with the people of Nimoa. 

When we first decided to go on the rally - late last year - Kevin and Francis invited us on board their boat and shared all their stories, photos and memories with us of their trip to the Louisiades.  I remember Francis telling me, "our trip there changed our lives".  Now that we have experienced the people there and the work that so many of the local people are doing for their communities I can certainly understand the way our lives can, and will change.

Kevin didn't just talk about helping .. he did something for the people of the Nimoa and surrounding areas.  He repaired, shipped and presented the clinic with the RPAYC's former committee boat so it could be used as transport for the expectant mother's, children and sick of the surrounding islands.

On board 'Southern Belle' along with the rally freight and our trading/sharing freight we also had several bags of groceries and sundry items that Kevin had asked us to purchase on his behalf and take to Father Tony.  One of the items was a pair of shoes for Tony's housekeeper!  Unfortunately Tony was away on the mainland while we were there so we didn't get a chance to meet him.  But Genevieve gave us a wonderful welcome.

Genevieve and the skipper - she's got her new shoes on!  And she loved them. 

Our second day on Nimoa included a visit to the school, Clinic, presentation of the medical goods taken by the rally boats and meeting Sister Sara the head nurse and miracle worker for the local communities.  Guy did the presentation and told stories about the way Sister Sara with the help of the rally and others has been able to stop/slow down the incidences of mother and child death amongst the locals.  I was in tears listening to Guy talk.

The school house with all the dim-dims in their rally shirts - there for the presentation of school gear to the school .. and the students gave us a special greeting on the beach when we arrived.

The clinic and presentation of bags and bags of medical supplies.

The skipper - George - was looking forward to the scheduled football game with the locals!  He wore his special Scotland t-shirt to play and it was looking good for awhile....he scored the first goal!  However - and you've heard this before - by the time for the second goal he had ruptured his Achilles tendon and that was the end of the game for him.  It was a terrific game but the yachties lost because there were way too many of them on the field at any one time!  Following the soccer game the women and girls had a chance to play netball - that game was a tie.

Presentation of prizes to the winning local team.

The netball players.

Next - the way home.